Elaine Center, TX.
I have a 2 year old colt. When he was given to me he was emaciated and had thrush. I had my farrier come out and trim his feet and asked for the best solution to kill the thrush. It has been 6 weeks and the colt still has thrush. I have been cleaning his feet every day and washing the feet with bleach, as I was told that is the best way. Now his frogs are in very bad shape and are falling off. How do I fix this and what should I expect to see as it heals?

Answer from Dave Farley
Elaine, Thrush can be very stubborn. This will require daily attention. The first thing you need to do is purchase some Thrush Buster. It is manufactured by Mustad. Buy several bottles. Clean the feet and make sure they are dry and free of all dirt, manure and urine. Apply the medicine to the frog area. Pack the frog with clean cotton. Apply Thrush Buster to the cotton. Wrap the foot with vet wrap. Be careful not to get any of the Thrush Buster above the hairline. Do this each day for fourteen days, then every other day for a week. Then every third day for two weeks. This should kill the thrush that is in the frog. I suggest that you continue to apply this medicine every four days until all signs of thrush are gone. Let us know how your horse’s thrush looks in six weeks.

Tom Columbia, TN
I have a 2 year old colt. When he was given to me he was emaciated and had thrush. I had my farrier come out and trim his feet and asked for the best solution to kill the thrush. It has been 6 weeks and the colt still has thrush. I have been cleaning his feet every day and washing the feet with bleach, as I was told that is the best way. Now his frogs are in very bad shape and are falling off. How do I fix this and what should I expect to see as it heals?

Answer from Dave Farley
This condition can be addressed by your farrier. It is not uncommon and is simply the frog being attached to the sole. After the sole and frog are properly dressed it will look normal.
Thanks for the question.

Sherry Michigan
I have a 6yr old paint gelding that I have raised from a baby. He has had a significantly mellow life (not much hard work) but recently we've changed our routine a bit and are working a little harder, his hind feet are widening on the outside and are very short on the inside (he is barefoot in the back and has shoes on the front). He stays inside at night and is turned out during the day. Normally, his back feet seem to wear normally with just his turnout and small amounts of riding we do. Since we have started working a little harder, I have also noticed some lameness in the rear. There is no swelling or heat I can identify and there are no bruises or rocks inside any of his feet. I'm really concerned because last weekend, after just lounging him, he came up so lame in the back that he was almost dragging one rear foot. By the next day he seemed much better but not 100% better. Could this be the result of his rear feet issues? If so, does he need shoes now? What kind should he have, etc. He has had rear shoes before when he was in full-time training and was fine with them but I removed them because he wasn't getting worked regularly. Thank you for your help!

Answer from Dave Farley
It is time for your horse to be balanced and shod in the rear. His age and working on a regular schedule will require hind shoes. He is now more mature and should be heavier as well as wider in conformation at age six. These changes will alter the foot condition and possibly require him to be shod on regular basis.

Lynne Crofton, MD
I have a warmblood that is constantly losing shoes. It is a miracle if he keeps them on for more than two weeks. In the summer when the ground is hard and dry the shoes fall off and his hooves chip and sometimes crack. In the winter, when the ground is wet and swampy, the shoes fall off or are sucked off by the mud. He remains sound, but does gimp around when forced to walk on gravel. Several people have told me that the problem is the "hoof balance" and that it is wrong. Some folks have recommended that I try glue on shoes but I'm not sure how well these will work in wet conditions. I have ordered the Hoof Rite supplement hoping that it will improve his hoof condition. Can you explain proper balance of the hoof? What more can I do to help my horse?

Answer from Dave Farley
There are many things that can cause shoe pulling. Some horses have a conformation that allows the horse to pull them. It could also be the stall or pasture environment (wet). There are some horses that do have a vitamin missing in their diet. Several months after the right vitamins are fed they grow a healthier hoof wall. It could be the farrier is not properly balancing the feet or modifying the shoes to keep them on. The number one problem with horses losing shoes in the summer is flies. Even if you fly spray your horse it usually looses its effect soon after it dries. Have you ever noticed your horse stomping the ground trying to get the flies off? The hoof, if already weak cannot take the constant stomping on any hard surface. In the warmer winter areas, weak feet simply cannot withstand the wet, swampy or muddy conditions. Moisture expands the hoof and pops the clinches. Then when it dries the shoes are loose. You are not the only person with this problem. There are thousands of horses with weak, brittle feet that function without losing shoes. One has to recognize the problem (as you have), then realize what is necessary to keep shoes on. There are a few who do not want to go the extra mile to keep a horse like this. This horse is different and simply cannot be treated like other horses. The simply answer to this is to limit a horse’s turn out. Professional trainers have found out that a horse with this condition need special attention. They do not turn these horses out if the pasture condition is not just right or if there are flies present. They just ride them more often.

You may need to do something different. You mentioned he has a problem walking on gravel so he does need shoes. I think you have to figure out what you can do to remedy the shoe pulling problem.

I do not feel poor balance is causing your horse to have poor quality feet. I will explain how you can test your horse for balance. Simply walk him on a flat, level concrete or asphalt surface. Watch closely as the foot lands. Do they land flat? If so then you are a very lucky owner. Not many horse are perfectly balanced. More than half do not track perfectly balanced, but still keep their shoes on and perform there duties well.

Remember that it takes several months to see the benefits of a hoof supplement. Have a good look at what you are willing to do or change to own a horse with this condition.

Thanks for the question.

Karen, from Washington state
Hi, Dr. O'Grady. Can you point me to any research that has been done on the affects of a broken pastern axis? I am looking to identify reasons to not trim a horse to achieve a broken back pastern axis (there is a specific barefoot trim modality that trims a hoof for a "harmonic curve" which is the same thing as a broken back pastern axis).

Answer from Stephen O’Grady, DVM
There is a new text Veterinary Clinics of North America - Equine Podiatry published by WB Saunders that gives many references regarding the detrimental effects of trimming to achieve a broken back hoof pastern axis. If one looks at the mechanics to start, in order to support weight, P1, P2 & P3 need to be in a straight line. If this line is broken back, the coffin joint is placed in extension and the tension within the deep flexor tendon is increased. Remember the broken back hoof-pastern axis is usually associated with the underrun heel. Not an ideal situation.

Peggy, from Ohio
We have a 3 year old quarter horse that since the wet spring we have had to keep her shod due to cracks in her hooves. Wonder if we can use some glue product instead of shoes for winter. Thanks in advance!

Answer from Dave Farley
This year has really been wet! It has taken its toll on horses all over the country. As for your question about using an adhesive instead of shoes, I recommend the product SUPER FAST. This product is very easy to use and will protect the hoof without the use of nails. But you need to get the feet as dry as possible before application. You can visit their web site @ www.vettec.com.

Anja, from Germany
A friend’s and my horse (15 year old warmblooded stallion) started 4 years ago to develop vertical cracks at the inner side of his right front hoof. Only one crack at a time. Crack always was very thin and was bleeding. He got special shoes (closed + padding) and the cracks always were healing very well. As soon as the crack was completely gone our farrier switched to normal shoes again. After a few weeks/month crack recurred. Now he has two cracks (as before thin and bleeding), one at the inner side of the hoof, the other one at the heel (that is the worst place I learned from our farrier). The first crack developed with a normal horse shoe, the other one after the special shoe was put on (although two days before he got the special shoe he was (unintentionally) galloping over hard ground, our farrier thinks that is the reason for the second crack, although it occurred only after the special shoe was put on. Our farrier now suggests to remove more or less half of the hoof, including the cracks, to put on a "half moon horseshoe" + hoof dressing and hope that there will be no infection and the hoof will grow back. Is there any advice or alternatives you can think of? Thank you very much in advance!!!
Best regards.
Anja

Answer from Dave Farley
Quarter cracks can be frustrating! I always double-check the medial lateral balance before applying any corrective shoe. One must first understand that it is when the crack is loaded with the horses weight that it continues to stress and bleed. With this in mind the crack has to be unloaded to start to heal and grow new hoof from the coronary. There are many ways to achieve this unloading of the crack area. I have applied the shoe that your farrier has suggested. There may be a problem if this shoe is applied and the horse is turned out and steps on that side of the foot. There is nothing to protect that opened side of the foot from uneven ground. This shoe does work well if the horse is not turned out and only ridden on level ground. A nice eggbar shoe applied, along with floating or cutting away the foot from the crack back will do best. One can also apply a thick rim pad to that foot and end the pad just in front of the crack to allow the area from the crack back to not touch the shoe. This open area under the shoe should be cleaned daily to keep the space from filling with debris (manure and dirt) and again loading the affected area.

This is a couple of ways that I treat quarter cracks and both have great success as long as the foot is properly balanced. If theses cracks are not corrected soon they could get infected causing the coronary band to scar. Let us know which way you decide to treat your horse.

Thanks for the question and we hope this helps.

Denise, from New Jersey
I own a 21 year old Thoroughbred gelding who I've owned since he was 5 years old. Always been pretty healthy. Last week the barn manager found him 3 legged lame with the horse not able to even touch his left rear leg to the ground, I called the vet who tested for a hoof abscess but found none, the horse had a 103 degree fever and was in terrible pain. The vet took x-rays to rule out a fracture, support wrapped the leg after close inspection, gave him antibiotics and bute and Banamine and we keep a close watch. 3 days went by with slow progress and on the 3rd day we changed the wrap and found a large abscess on the outside of the ankle center of the joint. The vet was surprised as she had closly inspected all of the lower leg. The abscess is very large and has several draining spots. We rewrapped after cleaning out the now draining abscess and the horse is almost without pain. We are expecting a full recovery. My question is how or what caused this type of infection in an ankle?

I have never seen an infection like this and I think my vet was surprised too but she said a small puncture might be to blame could that be so for such a large infection?

Answer from Stephen O’Grady, DVM
We usually try to address foot problems on this site but I'll try and give you a general answer. Your horse could have suffered a puncture wound as your veterinarian suggested or it could be acute lymphagitism of the hind limb. The fever will usually accompany lymphangitis. The infection will account for the fever and the intense pain. The pain will persist until drainage is established usually in the lower part of the limb (fetlock). Your treatment seems appropriate. We keep these cases on oral antibiotics for a couple of weeks to resolve any residual bacteria present.

Warren - Canada
We have a 16 year old quarter horse diagnosed with upper ring bone. If we fuse this joint will it affect his gait enough we wouldn't be able to show him in western pleasure?

Answer from Stephen O’Grady, DVM
Fusing the pastern joint is called surgical arthrodesis. As with any surgical procedure, there are always risks involved. If successful the horse will be sound and in some cases you may see a mild shortened stride at a trot/jog. You should be able to show at western pleasure. If you have it done use a reputable clinic or university and a board-certified surgeon. Best of Luck

Sidonna Davis - Woodward, OK
What type of trimming is recommended for a Tennessee Walker used for pleasure riding. We live in quarter horse country. How does it differ from a quarter horse trim if any? If shoes are put on the Tennessee Walker what is recommended?

Answer from Dave Farley
There is no difference between the trimming of your walking horse and a quarter horse. If you are using your horse for pleasure riding only a normal shoe is all that is necessary. If you are riding on trails that have rough terrain then you should consider some type of traction device such as heels on the shoes or borium applied to the shoe that will provide maximum traction.

Ilissa - NY
I have a 6 yo thoroughbred hunter, lately he gets anxious at competitions. The vet says its because his heels are sore... they are low and he tests positive with hoof testers. X-rays show no navicular. Are the sore feet causing him to be agitated- how should I shoe him?

Answer from Dave Farley
It is possible that your horse’s low heels are causing him to be uncomfortable. I would ask your farrier to raise the heels with shoes that have a wedge and/or regular shoes with a wedge pad. Both accomplish the same. I would do this as soon as possible. 

Sandra Smith - Willows, CA
My vet just told me that my 2yr old Paint gelding has a rotated coffin bone in his left front foot. Does that mean that at one time he had laminitis? We put pads on his feet and put him on bute, it has been a week and he is still lame. What else can be done?

Answer from Stephen O’Grady, DVM
There are three possibilities here.

The rotation could be the result of laminitis although not that common in a 2yr old horse and only in one foot. Second possibility is rotation resulting from a clubfoot  and the third possibility is rotation as a result of white line disease where you lose the attachment between the hoof wall and the coffin bone.

I would get your vet and farrier together and using the x-rays for guidance, the team can determine the best possible method to realign the coffin bone within the hoof capsule. This will be accomplished through trimming and some type of therapeutic shoe. Pads are not always helpful if rotation is present.

Heather - Adelaide, Australia
My 15.3 welsh section D cob has been lame for the last 8 months with a mild suspensory ligament sprain. Despite rest this has failed to heal and our vet has recommended we use an eggbar shoe on him for support. How do these shoes work? He's a big heavy horse with good sized feet.

Answer from Dave Farley
Properly fit egg bar shoes will help support the leg and take some of the stress of the suspensory. This should help no matter how heavy your horse is. Some of these injuries take over a year to heal.

Gina Lea - Eden Valley, MN

I have a 17 year old Foundation bred Quarter Horse/Appaloosa gelding that foundered a few months ago. He was treated for this, and showed no signs of lameness. His hooves seemed to grow quite rapidly, and at the last visit by the farrier, it was commented that he was sinking. I had his front feet x-rayed and was told he had 13-15 degrees of rotation in both fronts. Again, he has shown no signs of lameness. It was recommended that we have heart-bar shoes put on him with pads. Since his hooves do grow rapidly, I was intending to have these reset every 4 weeks. Is it possible to correct the rotation? I am not very knowledgeable in this area yet. Thank you for your consideration.

Answer from Dave Farley
It is not unusual for a horse that is a sinker, to be very sore. This is a serious problem. Heart bar shoes applied the right way may help. A horse that is a sinker can take a very long time to recover. Work very closely with both your vet and farrier. You may need to try several different ways to find what helps best. Dave

Dave
On 12/17/2001 you advised, on a horse that was over on his knees, square the toes on the hind, and back the shoes up on the front. Thanks to your suggestion most of the tripping is gone, it only gets worse about three weeks + after shoeing.

Again thanks for all your help
Richard Brumberger

Mike O'Neal, Mo
I have a Belgian draft horse that I use for pulling. He had a nail in his foot, about half way between his frog and the outside of his hoof, and I cannot get it to heal.

Answer from Stephen O’Grady, DVM
I would call your veterinarian and get him involved. He/she will probably place a sterile probe in the tract where the nail penetrated and take an x-ray. The x-ray will show the path of the nail and what structires are involved. If the tract does not heal there may be a focus of infection.

Treatment may involve debriding the infected tissue, establishing drainage and administering antibiotics.

I wouldn't delay in getting veterinary attention

Good Luck

NORTHERN VIRGINIA EQUINE
Dr. Stephen E. O'Grady
7135 Mt. Eccentric Rd.
The Plains VA 20198

From Ken
Hi, I have a 4yr old Arab colt. He keeps bruising his heels on the front. He is barefoot right now and I have the angles 50 deg on front, 52 on back. This is where the action is the nicest. The footing at the arena is all sand and very deep. I don't seem to have this problem anywhere else. I am using bell boots and wrap for now. This sand is better than mud. Is this a footing problem or a timing/angle problem. Any suggestions, Ken

Answer from Dave Farley
This problem is very possibly a result of angle. I would suggest to simply align the hoof to the pastern and give him time to adjust. No matter what the footing is this is where he will be in the best cadence. Without seeing your arena I cannot comment about how deep or what type of sand you have. I have many clients who alter there footing and footing depth to keep there horses sound and moving at there best. Let me know if changing the angles stops him from interfering and, or bruising. Dave Farley

From Brenda
I have a 9 year old Trak/TB gelding who is very heavily built. He has a mild bone spavin in both hocks and slightly "crushed" heels according to my farrier, but the heels are improving. He has been putting extensions on his rear shoes for more support and filing down the inside edges of the extensions so they're not as long. My horse has always had an interference problem behind (He had an old scar on one pastern when I got him 1.5 years ago.) and the problem seems to be getting worse. I see more abrasions on this pastern with these extensions. I'm trying to keep him in better shape through working hills and trotting ground poles etc. while keeping his hind legs wrapped in polo wraps to protect the pastern. Is there something else that can be checked or done by my farrier to help correct the interference while also improving the heel support? I'm afraid he could do some damage other than superficial scarring to his pastern. Others have suggested egg bars but won't he lose traction if it snows?

Answer from Dave Farley
This problem of interference seems to be worse than the bone spavin. I personally think that it may be time to shoe this horse with normal fitting hind shoes. Without seeing your horse and his x-rays it seems as though a good balanced foot with a normal fitting shoe would be much easier with your horses condition. Let me know if this helps without jeopardizing any thing else. Dave

Frances Olson
I have a ten-year old TB gelding that shows in the hunter division successfully at A shows. But for two years now I have been dealing with quarter cracks. My shoer is a journeyman farrier and has been shoeing my horses for 12 yrs now. We are currently lacing the area, putting acrylic on top of the lacing and he is in half rounds with pads. He grows out to resume his jumping after an eight-month layoff only to get more quarter cracks within two months. Help? Thanks

Answer from Dave Farley
Quarter cracks can be very frustrating. No matter what breed of horse you own, or where you live or show, some horses have hoof and or leg confirmation that make them predisposed to this problem. Quarter cracks that are chronic are the hardest to heal. There are many ways to attempt to mend them but one has to first look at the reason the quarter crack is there. If the reason for the cracks are not found and dealt with they will come back again and again. Finding the cause should be priority. Then and only then can you make a realistic evaluation. Without seeing your horse it is impossible for me to make an honest comment about what you or your farrier should do. I will warn you that some times there has to be a big change in the way the horse is shod to attempt to keep the cracks from reoccurring. This does not imply that movement will be sacrificed.

I have had many people ask me to fix a horse with quarter cracks but add do not change the way he moves. Sometimes this is impossible to do. I have seen some horses get cracks from shoeing them to move better. The farrier is in a very bad position. When dealing with quarter cracks. Most customers expect their horses to be good movers and have minimal time off to heal because of show schedules.

I want to thank you for asking us for advice. I wish I could see your horse so that I could offer my thoughts as to why he has these cracks and how I feel they should be addressed. If you have a digital camera you could take some pictures of the cracks and also some lateral shots of the hole horse. This would help.
Thanks again, Dave Farley

Nancy
I recently purchased a pure bred Arabian with excellent show potential. She is two years old and is currently being trimmed every six weeks. I have been told that if she is not trimmed properly for an Arabian that her movement could suffer and she could become useless as a show prospect. Trouble is I don't know what "trimmed properly for an Arabian" means. I certainly don't want to damage her as her movement is exceptional. TN is not a popular part of the country for Arabian show farms so I don't have an expert farrier to go to. I am concerned she is being trimmed too short now. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Answer from Dave Farley
Congratulation on the purchase of your new Arabian filly. I understand your concern about her being trimmed properly. I wish all owners felt the same as you.
Six weeks is the average for trimming, however some horses may be trimmed more often. The longer the toe the harder it is for a horse to break over and the higher the risk of a strain. If you are concerned about how short she is being trimmed you should ask your farrier not to trim her as short and ask to trim a little more often. This will assure that she is moving at her best without effort.
What you have been told about improper trimming negatively affecting the movement is true. However it is very important to learn what properly trimmed is for any horse or any breed. First the angle of the hoof wall. If you look at your filly from the side, (both sides), the hoof wall angle and the pastern angle should be the same. The pastern of each and every horse determines the angle of the hoof wall. When this angle is achieved the bones inside of the lower leg are properly aligned laterally. This will give her the best possible chance to both move her best and stay sound longer. This angle is slightly different in each horse just as humans feet are different. This takes a little practice to know when there is too much heel or not enough. Also what is too much toe length or not enough. Do not let any one convince you that your filly's hoof angle should be the same as some other horses. Second, there should be no excessive flaring or dishing on a normal hoof wall. Third, there should be no excessive pairing of the sole. The normal hoof should be slightly concaved. Remove only what is excess. Sole is needed to provide protection from gravel, rocks or anything uneven.
I hope this helps. It takes years to become a competent farrier. Try not to judge one if they do not specialize in your breed. Proper trimming is the same in all breeds. Dave Farley

From Courtney, Ohio
I have recently been given the opportunity to start riding an ex-Grand Prix horse. He stopped showing about 4 years ago because his original owner is no longer in the picture. Toward the end of the career, the owners dealt with him getting rather sore and discovered he was developing sidebones. They were not terribly bad. Since he has now had 4 years off from work, is there any chance that he can show at a lower level? What can we do to ensure soundness? I am terribly invested in showing this horse but I will not do so if his well-being will be diminished. Any information you have is truly appreciated.

Answer from Dave Farley
Congrats on the use of the ex-Grand Prix horse. You are very lucky. This horse could teach you a lot! I will first ask you if this horse is sound? If he is sound and you can get him into good show shape I would not hesitate to show him. I will advise that you should take quite a while to get him back into shape. Four years is a long time to be laid up. Being an older horse he may take longer to get back into jumping shape. This does not imply to practice jumping. That is the mistake most people make in your shoes. Consistent daily riding starting slow and working up will take quite a while. Most professionals seldom jump older horses when coming back from time off. They do a lot of flat work consistently and practice jumping before their class at the shows. Remember there are only so many jumps left in him. Don't waste them and run the risk of him going lame from to much practicing at home. He will not forget how to do his job, especially now that you will be jumping lower jumps. Consistent flat work at home a few practice jumps before his class and wait for your name to be called.
Sidebone lameness is very rare. I will advise for you to go over him daily with a fine-tooth comb looking for signs of any lameness before it happens. If sidebone lameness was the previous problem I suggest that you ask your farrier to bevel the outside of the shoes from heel to heel. This will allow him to break over in any direction with less stress put on the side bones. Good luck and many wins. Dave

Alicia, Texas
I have a chronically lame gelding. He is a half-thoroughbred, quarter horse, about 1300 lbs. He has thin soles and dished platter front feet. He also has chronic white line disease. We recently moved to this area of Texas where the ground is black clay farmland and is either soppy wet or hard and dry. He has free access to 24 hour grazing on 100+ acres of coastal. My gelding has always had some abscess problems, but now it seems we just go from one abscess to another and he has not been totally sound in about 8 months. Is there any proven supplements I need to give that would help? Is it possible he is missing some vitamin or mineral? Also I have read about a "natural trim" or "four-point trim" that is purported to help horses with these types of feet. Is there anything to this? Any help would be appreciated.

Answer from Stephen O’Grady, DVM
Seems like you have a few questions in your post. My overall impression especially since he is lame is that your horse may have low grade laminitis. I would get your vet involved and take some radiographs. If there is laminitis present, then your veterinarian along with a farrier can decide on the best method of shoeing. Chronic abscesses and white line disease usually accompany laminitis.

Regarding supplements, much research is still needed regarding there efficacy. I do use a product called Hoof Rite marketed by Dr Jan Young (I have no financial interest in the product) that appears to improve the consistency of the hoof wall.

I have no experience with the natural trim method.

Karen,  Wisconsin
I have a weanling foal, in which it looks like she is cow hocked. I was wondering if corrective shoeing (when old enough) could help her to a certain degree? If not, could she lead a normal life as a riding horse without major leg problems?

Answer from Stephen O’Grady, DVM
Your filly being cow-hocked is normal especially at this age. Rest assured that most horses are a little cow-hocked as this conformation gives the animal a mechanical advantage when compared with the hocks being too straight, bow-legged or deviated inwards. Keep her feet trimmed level and enjoy her growing up.

DL
My 7 year old draft cross forges (over reaches - hits sole of front feet with hind feet) almost constantly at the walk, and occasionally at a fast trot. This happens whether mounted or unmounted. It is driving me crazy, and can't be very good for his feet either, to be always hitting!

What can my farrier do to eliminate or at least reduce the problem?

Answer from Dave Farley
There are many horses that have that very same problem. This is usually connected to the horses conformation. There are however several modifications that can help with break over. This is what I would try first. I would suggest shoeing the front with a modification called a rocker toe. This will encourage the front foot to break over quicker and get out of the way slightly before the hind reaches the front. Shoe the hind normal (fitting the shoe to the perimeter). If this helps but does not eliminate the problem then at the next shoeing date continue to rocker the toes on the front, but add an extension to the hind shoes. This modification is called extended heels. This will help shorten the stride of the hind limb. I should also mention that this type of horse should be shod on a regular schedule, Usually every six weeks and no longer between shoeing.

Doreen, Belchertown, MA
I have a horse with a mild case of ossified sidebone. He was ound before importing him a few months back, but due to what happened to his feet during the cleaning and prep. for export, he has gotten a bit tender on one foot. I have done extensive vetting and x-rays, etc, and nothing shows up except the sidebone. He is a very big Friesian, and it is very, very common in the breed. How would you shoe a horse with sidebone, to make them sound again? This horse is only 4.

Answer from Stephen O’Grady, DVM
This type of horse is prone to sidebone (extensive ossification of the lateral cartilage) due to the weight of the horse and the way their feet impact the ground (landing pattern). Having said that, I have never seen a lameness associated with sidebones. I would have your veterinarian perform nerve blocks until he/she localizes the exact area of lameness and then address that area of the foot.

With regards to shoeing, I would make sure the shoes are of the proper size and provide adequate heel support. I would also pay strict attention to the hoof-pastern axis. One of these impression materials applied to or poured in the sole area of the foot may decrease the concussion in these heavy breeds.

Kay, Wisconsin
My Thoroughbred often trips behind and this has been treated as a stifle ailment. Could a change in shoeing technique improve this problem? Also, are there exercises to avoid while riding horses with stifle issues?

Answer from Dave Farley
Can you tell me if this problem has been diagnosed by a veterinarian? Can you also tell me if this is bi-lateral (both hind legs) or just one? Also did the veterinarian do a complete lameness exam? There are some modifications you can make for shoeing a horse with stifle problems but proper diagnosis is a must. I look forward to hearing back from you.

Kay, Wisconsin
Yes, the vet did diagnose that my horse has a stifle issue and he injected her stifles with iodine to tighten the ligament. This seemed to help for a while, but now it seems like we're back to square one. I'm not sure if this condition is bi-lateral, but most of the emphasis has been on her right hind. He did do a lameness exam and also ruled out any potential of EPM. She currently has eggbars and pads on her front end. Thanks for your feedback.

Answer from Dave Farley
Thank you for filling me in on the details. I'm glad to hear that you got a good evaluation on your mare. You stated that your mare benefited from the injection. This procedure may need to be done again. Ask your vet to fill  you in on how often it can be done. There are many horses with the same diagnosis that can be used only after an injection. I have shod several horses with this problem. As with any horse I balance the feet properly. I  have found that if you support the hind limbs a little more with either extended heels or with eggbars, this support will also take some stress off  the hocks. Supporting the hocks takes some strain off the stifle and sometimes keep the patella from unlocking as easy. Be careful with this condition!  When a stifle slips, (as you know) the horse's leg cannot  function normally. The stumbling as you call it may become more frequent and sometimes the leg will seem to lock in a position. It may now seem occasional and or only while going up or down an incline, or while working in a tight  circle. Sometimes this condition will continue to progress. That does not mean that your horse cannot be used, it only implies that you should be alert to her condition and use her when you feel confident about the terrain and be aware of when she may be prone to the slipping. Good luck and ask your vet about the possibility of another injection.

Brian Moore, Garrison, Montana
Have horse with old wire injury, left front foot. Caused cartilage damage. Seems to be very sensitive, but can be shod. Has a bar shoe on. Appears to have sidebone. Hoof is very tall, sole is low. Is a barshoe the right choice?  Can the hoof be trimmed back to normal over time?

Answer from Dave Farley
Before shoeing this horse again I strongly suggest to ask the owner to have a veterinarian take some x-rays. X-rays will answer all of your questions concerning what type of shoe and if the foot can be trimmed more  normal. Also have the owner to mention to the vet your concerns so that he or she will take x-rays of the proper angles for both of you to make the right diagnosis. I do this whenever I feel there is any thing abnormal about a  hoof. It is better to ask for x-rays than to make a mistake in trimming a foot. You will be respected for the professional judgment. It would be  interesting to know what is going on inside this foot that I'm pretty sure has a lot of bony changes.

Lisa, McKean, Pa
Hello, I have a Tenn. Walker, he is 16 years old. I bought him a year ago & this summer is the first year for shoes for us. He had shoes on 3 years ago with the prior owner. I am having trouble with him interfering with his front feet. The first 2 times we did not have this problem, but the last trim & reset , we now have this problem. I do not angle the hooves as I believe in the natural angle of the hoof. When he walks he will cross his feet, like  criss-crossing. And when we gait he will hit his fetlocks, & actually take a chunk of skin off his fetlocks. I am somewhat new at the walking horses, & as I said I've always shod with the natural angle of the hoof. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Answer from Dave Farley
The problem you are describing is called rope walking. When a horse steps one foot directly in front of the other sometimes they will interfere just as you said. Not only is it important to properly align P1, P2, and P3  laterally, it is equally important to check the balance of the hoof as it lands on level ground. It may not be possible to achieve a perfectly flat landing of the hoof as it touches the ground. You should study this to make a  good diagnosis.  Walk the horse slowly on a flat surface in a straight line and study him going away from you and coming toward you. There may not be enough hoof on the lateral side of the hoof to stop him from interfering  (crossing over). Most of the time you can check this by looking at the foot from the bottom to see if the frog is in the center of the foot. Or to make  it simpler is there equal distance on each side of the frog? Measure this to make sure. I take that you agree that a natural angle of the lower limb is to look at the hoof and pastern laterally and they are both the same, (this is  the natural angle for each horse) angle. I hope I understood your question and this helps. Let us know either way.

Tommy Scott, Van Buren, Missouri
I am a farrier in rural Missouri.  I work a full time job and have been horseshoeing for just over one year.  I am trying to establish a solid, reputable farrier service that will allow me to shoe full time.  My problem  is that I serve a 45-mile area and am barely breaking even due to clients that have scheduled multiple horses for shoeing, then when I arrive, there  will only be one horse to shoe or maybe trim the others.  By the time I travel back home, I have practically shod the horse for free.  I currently do not charge a farm visit fee, nor do I charge differently for one horse or  five horses.  Do you have any suggestions concerning charges and, how do I inform my regular customers of the new fees?

Answer from Dave Farley
The problem that you describe is one that most farriers have when starting out. You will find that the most important thing for you, starting now is to communicate with your clients. If you are on a schedule and see  your clients at your visits simply explain the situation. If you do not see them simply put this information on paper and in a nice way explain the situation. Let them know that you are a full time farrier and this is your  only income. There are many expenses that go into shoeing and that you have to make these expenses. If you travel this many miles, show up on time and do  a good job on there horses feet I think they will respect and understand your situation. You should do this as professionally as you can, either personally or by mail. Some may not be willing to pay the extra money but they should  respect your situation. Let them know how many horses and how much money you must receive to travel that far, or you simply must receive a farm or trip charge. Most farriers start out this way (breaking even) but like you realize  this will not work forever. Some do not have the skills to do anything about  it. They usually quit or get part time jobs to subsidize there shoeing. You are wise to figure this out in only one year! There is also the option of you  moving to an area that has more horses and where after you have honed your skills you can charge more money. My shoeing area is 12 miles. I choose to  move into the middle of this area to cut down on the miles I was driving.  Driving time is time lost and time is money. I was already charging as much as I possibly could in this area. By moving I cut my time and truck expenses.  I profit more money and spend more time doing what I want to do.  Do you have a connection with the local association? If not, you should join. This is a good way for you to learn from others. Some established farriers don't mind for other farriers to ride with them also, especially if you offer to pull and clinch for them. This is a very valuable  thing for you to do. I hope this will help you with your business decisions.

Shannon Murphy:
Need help with a very bad canker. Everything has been done except surgery. She's 19 and a beautiful show pony with black hooves and no white legs which I heard is common in animals with that description.  Please help.

Answer from Stephen E. O'Grady, DVM, MRCVS
Canker is defined as a chronic hypretrophic moist dermatitis. Before treating, I would have your veterinarian take a biopsy of the affected area and confirm the diagnosis. We have had the best success carefully debriding the affected area under general or local anesthesia. We then freeze the area once or twice. This is followed by topical treatment of metrenidazole (an antibiotic) combined with betadine or lotagen ointment until the problem is resolved. Treating canker warrents a long term commitment as it is a difficult disease to treat. There is additional information on my web site at www.equipodiatry.com

Patti Stiner
I am interested in purchasing a seven year old Quarter horse; her rear right  leg turns inward slightly & her farrier has a round shoe on her foot - is this a correctable problem? What causes this type of ailment?

Answer from Dave Farley
Assuming the farrier has the horse properly balanced there is not much anyone can do to make her conformation be normal (straight). This is probably why they have applied an eggbar shoe. They are trying to correct the  affected leg for whatever the reason is. Have you asked the owner about this? You should also ask their farrier about the horse. It could be that the horse simply pulled the shoe and lost a lot of hoof wall, but if this condition is  permanent and you plan on using this horse a lot you may need to keep shopping. This type of conformation fault may never bother a horse but it  could with excess use. ALWAYS get a pre-purchase exam done by YOUR vet  because your vet will know how you will use the horse and advise you accordingly.  Get all the facts before you buy. Let us know how this turned  out. I hope this will help you make a good decision.

Elizabeth Hoyt:
Greetings, my 11 year old Arabian gelding has bone spavin in both hocks.  Should I be supplementing him with Corta Flx or something similar, or just leave him alone?  We have injected him in the past with hyaluronic acid in the joint, with reasonably good affects for about two months after injection.  My vet at the time tried IV first, with no discernable difference. He is normally ridden 5 days a week, 1-2 jumping, the rest dressage.

Answer from Stephen E. O'Grady, DVM, MRCVS
There are many different approaches to managing bone spavin. Corta flex has no scientific proof as to its efficacy in treating this condition. Adequan, on the other hand has been proven to benefit horses with bone spavin. It is given intramuscularly according to a schedule prescribed by your veterinarian.

If I were to use an injection into the joint, I would use a corticosteriod. More anti-inflammatory and provides a longer duration of relief. However, this is a personal preference.

Shoeing, I would square the toe of the shoe to aid break over and I would make sure the hind limbs are well supported using the appropriate size and type of shoe.

Patti Stiner
I am interested in purchasing a seven year old Quarter horse; her rear right leg turns inward slightly & her farrier has a round shoe on her foot - is this a correctable problem? What causes this type of ailment?

Answer from Dave Farley
Assuming the farrier has the horse properly balanced there is not  much anyone can do to make her conformation be normal (straight). This is probably why they have applied an eggbar shoe. They are trying to correct the  affected leg for whatever the reason is. Have you asked the owner about this? You should also ask their farrier about the horse. It could be that the horse simply pulled the shoe and lost a lot of hoof wall, but if this condition is  permanent and you plan on using this horse a lot you may need to keep shopping. This type of conformation fault may never bother a horse but it  could with excess use. ALWAYS get a pre-purchase exam done by YOUR vet  because your vet will know how you will use the horse and advise you accordingly.  Get all the facts before you buy. Let us know how this turned out. I hope this will help you make a good decision.

Ron Zaccagnini
I have a question regarding shoeing technique.  I have had a problem getting a good sharp clinch on the nail ends.  The last set of shoes I put on before the last pack trip are coming off after only about 2 weeks.  The nails ends  round, rather than a sharp clinch.  I use a block first, then clinchers - I have tried both the ball type and alligators.  What am I doing wrong??? 

Answer from Dave Farley
 I may be wrong and let me know if I am but reading your question I think you are saying that your nails end up not tight against the hoof wall. Instead they are just rounded and on the outside of the wall. This allows the  shoe to become loose in a short time. This can happen a couple of ways. (1) You are not under cutting enough using the edge of your rasp or a hoof gouge below the nail before you use your clinchers and or (2) you are over using  your clinchers. You can tell #1 easily if as you say the clinch ends up on the outside of the foot. You can tell if it is #2 if there is quite a bit of a hole just above where the nail came out of the hoof wall and your nail end is just balled up on the outside of the wall. Either way if this is your question all you need to do is after blocking pull the foot forward and first cut all the excess nail off leaving only 1/16th of an inch of nail. Then use either the edge of your rasp or a hoof  gouge simply make a small cut under the nail. You can even use the hook of your knife blade. Then using your clinchers lightly pull down the end of the  nail and fold it into the grove you made. The nail should be almost flat against the hoof. All that is needed is a light rasping on the outside of the nail to make it feel smooth.  I hope I understood your question. Please let me know if this helped.

Edward Morris:
 What is the prognosis for an 16 year old horse who has contracted laminitis,  with rotation over 11 degrees on both front feet. Is return to optimum alignment possible or reasonable to expect? What of performance as a show  horse after treatment/healing is completed?

Answer from Stephen E. O'Grady, DVM, MRCVS
I may be able to give you a generalized answer. If baseline radiographs were taken at the beginning of your laminitic esisode, these may be able to give you a better prognosis. For example, if the horse had 5 or 6 degrees rotation (which can be normal) at the onset, then 11 degrees rotation would not be too severe and carry a better prognosis. You did not specify a breed. Many breeds at this age will develop pituitary disease which is associated with laminitis. There are medications available that are effective in treating this syndrome and when combined with
therapeutic result in a successful outcome.

Therapeutic shoeing is directed at realigning the third phalanx (coffin bone) within the hoof capsule. This will establish a better relationship of the solar surface of the coffin bone relative to the ground. Using radiographs, it will be helpful to have your vet and farrier consult and decide on the best  shoeing method to accomplish realignment. We have been
using glue-on shoeing technology for the last few years and this has given us consistent good results.

Norma:
I am thinking of purchasing a horse for my daughter that is perfect in every way.  However, I was told that she foundered at about 16 months (she is now 4).  She was under a vet care until healed.  She has very little rotation and is currently shod in the front every 6 weeks.  She has no limps -- her hooves are fast growing and bit straight up and down.  She loves to run (on her own in the pasture) so she is obviously not hurting.

My question is -- what potential problem, if any, might I have -- does she have a greater chance of having future problems, will there be limitations in riding, with regular farrier care does she have a good chance of no reoccurrence.  I know next to nothing about this.

Answer from Stephen E. O'Grady, DVM, MRCVS
Let me start by saying that laminitis (founder) is rare in a 16 month old horse. I would have a pre-purchase examination done by a veterinarian before purchasing the horse. Included in the pre-purchase, I would have x-rays done of her front feet to check the alignment of the coffin bone within the hoof capsule. I would also have the veterinarian and/ or farrier examine the sole wall junction (white line) on the foot to make sure it is normal. If all these parameters are within normal limits, I would feel comfortable buying the horse.

Debbie from Smyrna, DE
I have a 3yr.-old QH who has two different front feet. One has no heel and one does. My farrier shoes her by trying to keep the front feet as level as he can. I was wondering if the foot with no heel should have an egg bar shoe?

Answer from Dave Farley
Debbie, your 3 yr. old has the same problem as many others. It is very important with this high-low problem to look at each hoof and pastern from the side (Lateral view). On the normal foot (high foot) notice how high the heels are by dropping a line down from the bulbs where they end. Now look at the low foot from the side also. Compare the heel height and length to the other. Shoe this foot to gain heel height and length to match the other foot. Sometimes it takes an eggbar shoe and sometimes it only takes a bigger shoe.

Marlene from Lodi, OH
I have a mini horse, 8yrs. Old, just diagnosed with laminitis. He has a 3 degree front foot rotation, showing very minimal lameness. On bute, isozuprine and a thyroid med since he also diagnosed with hypothyroidism. I have been ice soaking him twice a day for the past 11 days and will have him x-rayed again next week. My farrier says he may not be able to put shoes on him if needed since his wall is thin. Any suggestions? Also, is a pad on the frog of importance for a laminitis horse to add pressure?

Answer from Dave Farley
Marlene, There are so many things to consider that it would take a week to try to explain the options that you have with your horse. In my life I have come to accept that ponies and mini's seem to founder more often than horses. Nevertheless we still treat them the same. If your mini has very thin walls and your farrier cannot nail on shoes that will provide frog support you can do one of two things,(1) glue on a shoe with frog support or (2) simply tape on the frog support. Make sure that your farrier has the x-rays to look at and knows where to place the frog support. If it is not placed properly and supports with no pressure it may not work. This frog support is very successful if placed properly and your mini is no longer toxic. Good luck and keep us informed. 

Julie from Bethel, CT
I have a 7yr-old warmblood mare that got an injury to her RF ankle causing it to fuse completely. The other good leg/foot has become flat due to the unevenness of leg length from the fused leg fusing more upright. What I would like to know is how to speed up the fused leg to take a longer step (she walks like as w/ a peg leg--she has a full roller motion shoe on it), and even out her leg length (the good leg has ended up shorter w/ a very flat foot due to the RF fusing in a more upright manner)? We have tried rim pads to add length, but not much luck. The RF causes her no pain and can support her full weight---thanks, Julie

Answer from Dave Farley
Julie, The fusing of the RF has permanently caused the loss of the range of motion because there is no longer movement in the ankle joint. As the leg is extended in flight the toe cannot extend. Forcing this to happen will eventually have a negative effect on the fused ankle. Speeding up the breakover is good and there is several ways to do this. A full roller motion shoe is one way. You could also try a lighter shoe with an extreme breakover. If your mare stands square when at rest (Meaning both feet stand beside the other) I would not try to add length. If she stands square she is telling you she is comfortable. I am afraid this is all I can say about your mare. Have you noticed she gets a little more even with time? For future reference if you ever have this happen to you or someone you know at the time of the insult apply one half inch of pad along with a eggbar heartbar shoe to the good leg. Keep the horse shod this way for six months and then slowly remove the pads one-eighth inch at a time. This will leave the horse as close to normal as you can get. 

Stef:
What will a flare cause in a 2yr. old colt (I believe that is the term) his front hoof seems dished slightly

Answer from Dave Farley
Stef, Flares are sometimes very negative to a horse. A flare can cause the foot to be unbalanced. A newly trimmed front foot should be symmetrical. As you pick up the foot and look at the bottom (after regular trimming) the frog should be in the center of the foot. A flare on the outside toe will sometimes cause the foot to hit the ground at the point of the flare. This is not good because then the medial quarter will begin to shear. Some horse will develop splints. Regular trimming (6 weeks) is the best way to prevent this. If the flair cannot be removed completely you may have to apply shoes to achieve proper balance.

Good luck and keep us informed on your horse’s flares.

MP from Philomont VA:
My eventing, competition horse has just started to show signs of founder. There is a slight separation of the sole from the hoof wall. He is not lame, showed no signs of soreness when we put shoes on him, and my farrier told me to keep riding him, but only on soft footing. The ground is HARD here now (N. VA), but it is also spring and the grass is lush. I am not sure if this is concussion founder or grass founder or both. What would you recommend as treatment? I was looking into equi-pak. This horse is very valuable and I do not want the founder to progress. Again he has shown no other signs of the disease.

Answer from Stephen E O'Grady, DVM
I would be very surprised that your horse has laminitis (founder) with no signs of pain. I would rather consider a hoof wall separation usually caused by some form of mechanical hoof wall stress. These hoof wall separations can be invaded by bacteria/fungi leading to so-called White Line Disease (WLD). If WLD is extensive, it can often mimic laminitis.

I would get a thorough foot examination including lateral radiographs done by your veterinarian. Radiographs can rule out laminitis and show the extent of WLD if present. In all cases, it is necessary to try and determine the cause of the separation The radiographs can also be used to guide your farrier as to the best way to trim your horse in the future.

RH from Oregon:
I have a paint mare that has really bad front hoofs. I live in Oregon where it seems to rain a lot. I have abscess problems and now that it is drying up her hooves are splitting really bad. I am going to get her shod. She is being fed vitamins with high amounts of biotin. I have heard that maybe yucca or soybean meal added to her diet can be helpful. Any information would be helpful. 

Answer from Stephen E O'Grady, DVM
 It sounds like your mare may need to be trimmed more often in the wet weather. It is important to trim the mare so her toes don't get to long.  As you know, the wet weather will cause her hooves to become soft. So the combination of a long toe (hoof wall) and soft feet can cause a widening of the sole wall junction (white line) with small fissures which allow foreign material to penetrate. This will lead to chronic abscesses.

The fact that she has cracks in her feet in the dryer weather is further evidence that her toes or overall hoof wall may be too long. Shoes will help this situation and allow the cracks to grow out. No feed supplement will help her feet without proper trimming.

DB from Perry, Ohio:
Are aluminum or steel eggbars better for a navicular horse?  I would think that the steel would offer more support, and the aluminum would be more flexible?

Answer from Dave Farley:
The question of using steel or aluminum eggbars for a navicular horse depends on the horse and what the horse is used for. There has been no scientific study that can prove that one material is better than the other for treating navicular. Both materials if fitted properly will give the same support. I prefer a steel eggbar shoe unless I am shoeing a hunter or a quarter horse. I also like to add the Equi-Pak pour in pad to give support to the bottom of the foot.

JC from Saltville, VA
I am riding a Tennessee Walker with very soft hooves. They are cracked, split on the outside and underneath also. We are using biotin daily +rainmaker on the hooves and frogs.  I can not see any improvement and I am worried about the soundness of the horse with such brittle hooves. Any suggestions about further care and maintenance would be greatly appreciated.

Answer from Stephen E O'Grady, DVM
It is often said, " the horse's foot is a product of its environment". When you mention soft hooves, one thinks of excessive moisture. On the other hand, you mention the hooves are cracked and split which would indicate dryness.

You didn't say whether the horse was shod. If not, I would shoe the horse to protect the bottom of his foot, promote sole growth and allow the cracks to heal. Shoes would also allow the cracks in the outer hoof wall to grow down. The use of hoof supplements containing biotin can be helpful. If the feet are soft, the horse could spend additional time in a stall bedded on sawdust or shavings. One of the hoof hardners such as keratex could be applied to the feet daily. If the feet are dry, I would paint them every few days with a mixture of 3 parts cod liver oil and 1 part pine tar. Hope this helps

Question from LJ:
I would like to know the angles at which my 1/2 Arab mare should be set in order for her to perform her best. I use her for eventing so I jump her often and also use shoes with studs. Her fronts are 53, back at 55. Can you give me some insight into this?

Answer from Dave Farley:
There is a lot of debate in the farrier world about the "correct angles". It seems that most of the farriers that we rely on agree there is no magical number for any breed or discipline. It has to be evaluated on a horse by horse basis. In fact the angles you mentioned may be too upright and if you are trying to get length of toe, you may be getting too much heel which can result in a support problem unless the shoe is of a good length (i.e. directly or near the line down from the bulbs. If the horse is comfortable a lower angle is not negative. Support is the main concern as well as a proper alignment of the bone structure.

Question from EG:  
One of my horses has hock issues. Not serious but ever so slight. I am interested in putting the New Balance shoes on the rear. I was told that they might provide additional leverage and cushion for him to push off from behind more easily. Do you have any information that might assist me in deciding what to use on his rear hooves?

Answer from Dave Farley:  
Sorry to hear that your horse has some type of hock problem. Depending on whether it is upper or lower joint pain will determine what type of shoe it needs to relieve the problem. Usually it is the lower joint (the distal tarsal joint) that is the problem. Ask your vet to make sure. If it is the lower joint you might consider extending the heels to support his hocks. Squaring the toes will also help buy probably not as much square as the Natural Balance shoe. Remember that the hind leg should not break over too fast (and should never slip). This could cause even more problems. The horse uses his toes for balance and leverage. We should never go to the extreme but instead try basic modifications to alleviate the problems.

Question from BM:  
My horse has been diagnosed with a broken coffin bone. How should this horse be shod and what is a typical prognosis?

Answer from Dr. Stephen O'Grady: 
The prognosis will depend on where the fracture is located and if the fracture extends into the joint. The prognosis will further depend on how the fracture is stabilized, i.e., the treatment. Treatment- The continuous rim shoe works well. Make a straight bar shoe that extends beyond the heels. Take a piece of tin foil and make a template. The rim should extend from one inch behind the widest part of the foot around the perimeter of the hoof to the same point on the opposite side of the foot. Rim will be about 1/2 to 1 inch wide. Lay template out on light gauge metal, trace, cut out with torch or jig saw and weld to shoe. Not complicated. Recently I've been gluing the shoes on with Equilox. Use an Aluminum straight bar shoe. Glue it on and make a rim around the perimeter of the foot with the equilox as described above. No trauma with this method. Both types of shoes give good stabilization.

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